How does the knitting process, width, weight, thread length and yarn count affect the weaving process?
The calculation formula for single-faced yarn length: NAZ: 100 needles (99 stitches) yarn length=99*1181/Ne*g
The calculation formula for single-sided door width: NAZ: door width = total number of needles in the cylinder/〔square root of the number of stitches in 1 square meter*K1*(L+K2)/(yarn diameter d+K3〕)
The calculation formula for the long width of single bead yarn: NAZ: 100 needle yarn length (cm)=2010/(Ne+2.7)/(g+80)*99
Width=total number of needles/5cm horizontal density*5
Total number of loops = m2 yarn length / loop length
m2 yarn length (m)=9000/D*gram weight*100
5cm lateral density = square root of the total number of coils*900*(L+0.07)/(D+270)*0.05
Double-bead yarn length calculation formula NAZ: Yarn length (CM/loop length)=2280/(Ne+3)/(gram weight+100)
The calculation formula for the width of the double beads NAZ: width=total number of needles/transverse density (CM) transverse density/CM=0.00145*(Ne+2.5)*(gram weight+65)
Double-sided yarn length calculation formula NAZ: yarn length/100 count=344000/(Ne+1.6)/(gram weight+100)
Double fabric width calculation formula NAZ: width=total number of stitches/cross density horizontal density (number of needle posts/CM)=0.00118*(Ne+3)*(gram weight+110)
K1---0.375 K2---1.018 K3---0.318 Yarn diameter d=1.3/square root of metric count (male count=1.693*English count)
1) Number of loops in 1 square meter = yarn length of 1 square meter/loop length
2) ∵The number of coils in 1 square meter = the number of wales in 1 meter * the number of courses in 1 meter
∴Based on the known number of loops per square meter, combined with the loop length that affects the loop pitch, loop height, and yarn diameter design formula
3) K2 is the coefficient for adjusting the length of different loops of the same yarn count, and K3 is the coefficient for adjusting the length of the same loop of different yarn counts (yarn diameter d)
Code weight calculation and conversion
Yard weight = connecting edge width (CM) * square meter weight / 109.361 = connecting edge width (in) * square meter weight / 43.055
OZ/YD=WIDTH×GM/M2×0.00082
GM/㎡=(CPI×WPI×50C)÷S/1×0.018367
Change of yarn length after dyeing and washing
jin0033: Generally, all cotton products are calculated at a shrinkage of 1-1.5%; chemical fiber products are calculated at a shrinkage of about 4%
NAZ: 2% for pure cotton, 8-10% for polyester high temperature dyeing, 4-5% for 100 degree dyeing
zhangjiaju: Cotton bleaching does not shrink, dyeing 2%; TC/CVC 7-9%, large shrinkage of polyester ratio; 9% polyester
The relationship between the weight of the finished knitted fabric and the blank
3Z:
1*1Rib cloth light blank gram weight*83%=Rough gram weight
1*1 Spandex rib fabric light weight *91% = rough weight
2*2Rib cloth light weight*87%=Rough weight
2*2 Spandex rib fabric light weight*92%=Rough weight
Single jersey light blank gram weight * 92% = rough gram weight
Light weight of spandex jersey*100% = weight of rough
Single piqué cloth light weight *93% = rough weight
Double piqué cloth light weight *88% = rough weight
Single Sweater Fabric Light Weight*89%=Rough Weight
Single Sweater Fabric Light Weight*89%=Rough Weight
Double Sweater Fabric Light Weight*88%=Rough Weight
Scratching double sweater fabric light weight * 83% = rough weight
Weight of double-sided cloth light blank*88% = gram weight of blank
Single polar light blank gram weight * 89% = rough blank gram weight
Double polarized light blank gram weight * 98% = rough blank gram weight
Velvet blank gram weight * 116% = blank gram weight (after scissors)
Dense velvet light blank gram weight * 116% = rough gram weight
Other factors affecting:
Adjusting machine-pressure needle, needle cylinder height, cloth roll, tension, yarn ratio,
Raw material composition, thickness, elasticity, moisture regain,
Printing and dyeing-weight loss caused by refining, enzyme treatment, mercerizing, acid-base reduction, etc., tension, temperature, time, weight loss or weight gain caused by functional finishing,
Post-adjustment-setting width, temperature, time, tension,
Empirical data and formulas can only be used when the process conditions are consistent or very close.
Example: Why the original 32S double bead cloth, 30"24G single jersey machine, the light blank gram weight 74"160G/M, the rough gram weight 141G/M, 26.5CM/100N used to be possible, but now it can’t be done with the previous overweight process?
After investigation, the previous shrinkage is horizontal -1 and vertical -8.9, indicating that the embryo is slightly heavier. It must be adjusted to 27CM/100N.135G/M
Set the weight, the calculation method of the counter-revolution:
3Z: 1. Yarn length A*number of weaving entrances*total number of stitches
2. Yarn length B*number of weaving entrances*total number of stitches
3. . . .
{If possible, use the instrument to directly measure the yarn length after one revolution of the needle cylinder} According to the required yarn length, then calculate the yarn weight separately
4. A yarn weight + B yarn weight + C yarn weight +. . . = Cloth weight (G) after one revolution of the needle cylinder
5. The weight to be set KG/[cloth weight (G)/1000]
Given silk D, yarn length L (m), find the weight: D/9000* silk length L = yarn weight g
Given yarn s, yarn length L (m), find the weight: yarn length L/(1.693*s) = yarn weight g
1.693 is chemical fiber, if it is T/C, it is 1.702, if it is cotton, it is 1.715.
Caterpillar:
Bottom cloth revolutions = 1.715 * 105 * weight * yarn count / (coil length * total number of stitches * number of ways)
zhangjiaju:
A=Longitudinal length of the machine turning 1 circle (m)
B= Embryo cloth weight (gram weight per square meter)
C=Fabric width (m)
D=required cloth weight (g)
Down cloth revolution=D/(A*B*C)
Cost accounting of knitted fabrics
3Z: Knitted fabric cost = [(raw material price/weaving loss) + weaving cost)/printing and dyeing loss + printing and dyeing labor cost + management fee + tax + freight.
The formula for calculating the number of knitted garment fabrics
The formula for knitted garment materials
(1) Clothes
Body material: (chest circumference+6CM) X (body length+6CM) X 2X weight X (1+total loss)
Sleeve material: (shoulder hanging + cuff + 4CM) X (sleeve length + 4CM) X 2 X weight X (1+total loss)
Collar material: (neck width X2+2) X collar height X 1 X weight X (1+total loss)
Each dozen clothes material = body material + sleeve material + collar material
(2) Pants
(Range+leg circumference+4CM) X (trouser length+8CM) X 2 X weight X (1+total loss)
Remarks: The following is for reference only
Rib: 18% jersey: 15-16% mesh: 15-16% spandex jersey 18-20%
Flannel: 17-18% Yarn-dyed fabric (large): 27-32% Yarn-dyed fabric (small): 22-25%
Fabric calculation formula: Fabric price = yarn price + weaving price + dyeing price + others (including printing, opening and shaping, and subsequent processes)
A person who has no experience in layout and needs to calculate the approximate materials used for a piece of clothing. The simplest method is to convert squares. This is also the most commonly used. This is for ordinary tops. The details are as follows:
Front body=[(1/2 chest circumference+1/2 hem)/2+left and right seams of front part]*(front length+long bottom seams)/fabric width
Back body=[(1/2 chest circumference+1/2 hem)/2+left and right seams of the back part]*(back length+up and down seams)/fabric width
Sleeves=[(sleeve fat+cuffs)/2+left and right seams of each sleeve]*(sleeve length+up and down seams)/fabric width
Collar=(collar length*collar width)/width
Dried noodles = noodles width * noodles length / door width
Single clothing material = (two pieces of front clothing + back body + two sleeves + two layers of collar + two noodles) * 1.03 + loss
Generally, cotton-padded clothes use more materials than single clothes, and the balance of plate making is required.
Top face: bust ≤120CM ---length + sleeve length + 10CM + 7CM (ordinary collar)
In the clothespin: Length +50CM
Pants: hip circumference≤120CM---trousers length+10CM
Pants: hips>120CM---3/2 trousers length
Pants length = inner length + front wave = outer length (note whether the waist is connected or not)
Top: Bust ≥120CM---If there is no folding door, you can still take the length of the dress + sleeve length + 10CM + 7CM
Top: Bust ≥120CM and folding door---length*3
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